Brachycephalic syndrome…common in French Bulldogs, Pugs etc.

May 29, 2009 by KathyDV TBD  
Filed under Health Tips, Ponderings & Posts

ELONGATED SOFT PALATE • STENOTIC NARES • EVERTED LARYNGEAL SACCULES


—Janet R. Kovak, DVM
Diplomate ACVS

Synonyms: Brachycephalic syndrome

Certain breeds of dog are prone to difficulties breathing because of the shape of their head, muzzle and throat. The most common dogs affected are the “brachycephalic” breeds. Brachycephalic means “short-nosed.” Good examples of brachycephalic breeds include the English bulldog, Pug, French Bulldog, Pekingese, and Boston terrier. These dogs have been bred to have relatively short muzzles and noses and, because of this, the throat and breathing passages in these dogs are frequently undersized or flattened.

The term “Brachycephalic Syndrome” refers to the combination of elongated soft palate, stenotic nares, and everted laryngeal saccules, all of which are commonly seen in these breeds. Elongated soft palate is a condition where the soft palate is too long so that the tip of it protrudes into the airway and interferes with inspiration of air into the lungs.

Stenotic Nares are malformed nostrils that are narrow or collapse inward during inhalation, making it difficult for the dog to breathe through its nose.

Everted Laryngeal Saccules is a condition in which tissue within the airway, just in front of the vocal cords, is pulled into the trachea (windpipe) and partially obstructs airflow.

Some dogs with brachycephalic syndrome may also have a narrow trachea (windpipe), collapse of the larynx (the cartilages that open and close the upper airway), or paralysis of the laryngeal cartilages.

Causes, Incidence and Prevalence:
Brachycephalic syndrome is considered to be an inherited condition. All brachycephalic breeds are prone to airway problems, and the shorter the nose is, the more likely it is that a dog will have respiratory difficulties due to one or all of the three problems. Obesity will aggravate the problems.

Signs and Symptoms:
Dogs with elongated soft palates generally have a history of noisy breathing, especially upon inspiration (breathing inward). Some dogs will retch or gag, especially while swallowing. Exercise intolerance, cyanosis (blue tongue and gums from lack of oxygen), and occasional collapse are common, especially following over-activity, excitement, or excessive heat or humidity. Many dogs with elongated soft palates prefer to sleep on their backs. This is probably because this position allows the soft palate tissue to fall away from the larynx. The signs associated with stenotic nares and everted laryngeal saccules are similar.

Physical Exam:
Stenotic nares can be easily diagnosed on physical examination (Figure 3). Definitive diagnosis of both elongated soft palate and everted laryngeal saccules can only be made with the dog under anesthesia. Generally, brachycephalic breeds have a thick tongue that makes visualization of the larynx in an awake animal very difficult. Attempts to restrain the patient and retract the tongue sufficiently to allow visualization of the larynx are generally unsuccessful. Under anesthesia, elongated soft palates extend past the tip of the epiglottis (the entrance to the airway) by several millimeters. In severe cases the soft palate will extend directly into the laryngeal opening. The tip of the soft palate is and the edges of the larynx are often inflamed (swollen and red). In chronic cases, the cartilages of the larynx become inflexible and begin to collapse, further narrowing the airway. Everted laryngeal saccules look like blue-gray soft tissue masses protruding into the airway just in front of the vocal folds.

Treatment Options:
Soft palate abnormalities should be treated if they cause distress to the dog, become more severe with time, or cause life-threatening obstruction. If your dog shows gagging, coughing, exercise intolerance, or stridor (difficulty breathing), resection of the excess soft palate may be necessary. Soft palate resection is performed using a scalpel blade, scissors, or CO2 laser. The palate is stretched and the excess tissue is removed with blade or scissors.

The palate is often stitched after it is cut; 60-85% of dogs improve with surgery but still have some intermittent noise or snoring. The CO2 laser may reduce bleeding and discomfort, and surgery time is shorter because no stitches are needed in the mouth.

If the laryngeal saccules are everted, they may be removed at the same time as the soft palate resection, or they may be left in and allowed to return to a more normal position. Correction of stenotic nares, if present, helps improve breathing and is done at the same time. (Figures 7a and 7b). Your general practice veterinarian may wish to refer you to an ACVS Veterinary Surgeon for evaluation and treatment of your pet’s breathing problems. To find an ACVS surgeon in your area, click here: Find a Surgeon.

Potential Complications Following Surgery:
Patients must be monitored very closely immediately after surgery. Significant inflammation or bleeding can obstruct the airway, making breathing difficult or impossible. Occasionally a tube must be placed through the neck into the trachea (“temporary tracheostomy”) until the swelling in the throat subsides enough that the dog can breathe normally.

Patients are usually observed in the hospital for at least 24 hours. Post-operative coughing and gagging are common. In chronic cases in which the laryngeal cartilages have become inflexible, removal of the elongated soft palate and laryngeal saccules may not provide enough relief. The creation of a new permanent opening into the trachea in the neck area (called a permanent tracheostomy) may be the only solution, although there are many complications associated with this procedure as well.

Prognosis:
The prognosis is good for young animals. They generally will breathe much easier and with significantly reduced respiratory distress. Their activity level can markedly improve. Older animals may have a less favorable prognosis, especially if the process of laryngeal collapse has already started. If the laryngeal collapse has advanced, the prognosis is poor unless additional procedures are performed to address this serious problem.

BLATANT SALES PLUG: Yes, The Blissful Dog Nose Butter will keep YOUR dog’s nose soft and pliable. Click here and shop.

Off #@$% Tick

May 27, 2009 by KathyDV TBD  
Filed under Health Tips, Ponderings & Posts

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Ticks are the bane of my existence, right after CNN, and this time of the year they are heinous here in the big woods of MInnesota. My Great Pyrenees, Zoe, is a true tick magnet and the pour-on stuff I have tried has not done a thing. Plus, it scares me to pour chemicals right onto her…if she were to have a reaction, there would be nothing I could do!

So, I Googled and searched and came up with a couple of more natural tick be-gone alternatives…

INGREDIENTS
2 tablespoons vegetable or nut oil (almond oil contains sulfur, a repellent
in its own right)
10 to 25 drops Rose Geranium essential oil

Combine the ingredients in a glass jar; shake to blend. Drop onto your dog’s collar, of course this works best on a fabric collar or use a handkerchief if your dog is a nudist.
Make: 2 tablespoons with a shelf life of about six months.

I also found info on these essential oils….cedarwood, lemongrass, peppermint, rosemary or thyme have all been shown to be effective, when used sparingly, to keep fleas and ticks away from pets and their favorite haunts.

Zoe and I will be letting you know which is the best of these essential oils!

Traveling with Your Flat Faced Dog Friend

May 24, 2009 by KathyDV TBD  
Filed under Health Tips, Ponderings & Posts

Once upon a time Jack and Jill decided to travel up the hill and take Mr. Wiggles with them. Jack wanted to just grab a pail, but Jill was a much more savvy traveler and she grabbed her The Blissful Dog Travel List to help get things organized.

The Blissful Dog Travel List for Road Trips

• Make sure your dog is used to traveling before a long trip. A few quick trips around town will accustom your best buddy to being in the car. Of course, you will be using a crate for your dog on the trip, as safety first is Jack and Jill’s motto. No ugly spills will mar your idyllic vacation!
• Also, ensure your dog has a clean ill of health and is up to date on any required vaccinations OR has the appropriate titers (for those of us who are looking askance at over-vaccination issues. Bring copies of any paperwork along, just in case Mr. Wiggles nips someone (the horror).
• Even if your dog is usually “ala naturelle” have him or her wear a collar with identification. May we also suggest you have additional identification with the destination written out (there are nifty little cylinders you can buy and slip a piece of paper in with temporary contact info). While on the subject of collars and such…please make sure you keep your buddy on a leash while you are out of your area. It only takes a blink of a Pug eye for your best friend to get lost. They can quickly become disoriented and then a fun trip becomes a nightmare.
• Take cool water from home, especially if your dog has a sensitive tummy, as changes in water could give a little tourista (oh, no!). Also, bring plenty of food from home so they will not have nay digestive upsets along the way. Dogs crave routine and their same food, in their same bowl, at about the same time, is best, if at all possible.
• If you are the only human in the car there will be times when you HAVE to leave your dog alone in the car. In hotter climates, this can be a bit unsettling and we do not have perfect answers, just what has worked for us. Tip: Have two sets of keys to the car, leave the car locked and the a/c running and dash in and out as quickly as you can! Keep in mind that this is literally a “pit stop” answer, as a/c systems can fail and we do not want that to happen to YOU. If you must be absent for much more than that…leave your flat faced dog at home!
• When I have traveled on long road trips with my French Bulldogs, in moderate weather, I would run in and take MY pit stop and run right back out. Then I would park under a tree (if possible) and let me dogs out for a break. When traveling with one or two dogs I would just keep them on leashes for their walks. With more than two, I would use an exercise pen and allow them time out to romp and go potty. NEVER leave an ex-pen unattended, no matter how tempting it may be to just run into whatever for a minute. Just don’t. (DUH).
• Breeds like pugs and FRench Bulldogs have eyes that protrude just a bit more than many other breeds (we think it makes them even cuter). But this sassy feature also makes it easier for our buddies to get debris in their eyes – ouch! If you do roll the winds down, make sure it is just a bit and of course, never enough for one of these bold buddies to leap out! Yes, I have had crazy Frenchies leap out of car windows and I needed cardiac recussitation both times it happened. Thankfully, I was parked in my own driveway – crazy dogs!
• Ok, here are a couple of common sense recommendations…do not let your dog run loose all over the car! I know there are many of you who let your dog stand in your lap while you drive…one word…DON’T! They can cause accidents when trying to give kisses, roll the window down or by just being a dog…so, do not let them have free rein in the car…period.
• Keep your dog crated OR in a seatbelt OR doggie car seat (yes, they have them). It is safer for them, for you, and for everyone on the road. Please. Heaven forbid we sound strident or preachy…but we do not want you and YOUR Blissful Dog to be injured. Enough on all that!
• Last, we do not recommend you tranquilize your dog, as reactions can occur and their breathing may be compromised, especially our flat faced friends. WARNING…SALES PLUG! We strongly advise you use our The Blissful Dog RELAX Vibrational Essence. That way…no drugs are involved and they will just relax…ahhhh. Yes, blatant attempt to sell you something, but really I feel like I am sharing a great piece of advice by telling you about this amazing product, so there!

May you and your flat-faced friends have a Blissful Road Trip!

Pets and Crystals – The First Steps

May 21, 2009 by KathyDV TBD  
Filed under Ponderings & Posts

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Yes, crystals are an amazing tool to put into your toolkit for working on your pets! Crystals can help you and your dog reduce stress, balance your emotions, clear blockages, and find a place of complete balance.

When working with your dog remember they react to pain or discomfort, they will move away, hide the pain, or even show various levels of aggression. So you know you will need to be calm, centered and at peace with the work. If you are afraid of the dog biting you…oh, yes, they will pick up on that energy! Take some time for meditation, calming and centering yourself before you begin to work with your dog.

The innate nature of crystals is to amplify the effects, so please take the time to gauge your individual pet’s reaction. Very subtle signs can appear; ears back, a hint of a lip lift, stegosaurus back, trying to get away, my Newfoundland gives me a LOOK when he is absolutely through with me messing with him. Open your energy and allow your dog’s energy to move into your energy field.

Crystal healing can sometimes be too fast for the animal to integrate, or be too intense and may cause pain and other discomfort. STOP when they give you the sings that it is too much, too fast!

Various stones produce different effects shown through your animal’s behavior the effects of each on pet energies, essentially the same as those on humans. Rose quartz for example is good for a pet that has been wounded or recently had surgery, as it surround it with love and healing vibrations, according to leading writers in the field, such as Melody, who wrote “Love is in the Earth” (Earth-Love Publishing House). We will chat more about the various stones tomorrow…for now, just read and get an idea of HOW to use the stones.

Hold the crystal in your hand, and start a few inches away from the area of concern, then rotate the crystal clock-wise in a circle over the area. Send healing energy to the area and hold the intention that the greatest good of healing energy is flowing through to your dog.

However, if you put too many crystals around your pet they may feel disoriented.

More tomorrow!!!

As always, seek the best available competent medical advice for your pet or animal. It is not intended information to replace the advice of a professionally qualified veterinary.

Reiki For Your Dog

May 17, 2009 by KathyDV TBD  
Filed under Health Tips, Ponderings & Posts

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Reiki (ray-key) is a Japanese technique for stress reduction and relaxation that also promotes healing. It is shared by “laying on hands” and is based on the idea that an unseen “life force energy” flows through us and is what causes us to be alive. If one’s “life force energy” is low, then we are more likely to get sick or feel stress, and if it is high, we are more capable of being happy and healthy. Reiki comes from the Japanese Rei and Ki meaning spiritually guided life energy. This definition is from reiki.org and applies to animals and people alike. For that matter, one can Reiki ANYTHING…I have used Reiki on my computer, vehicles and pretty much everything.

Reiki can help many physical and emotional issues that our dogs have. It seems that the longer they live with man, the more problems they seem to develop. Eckhart Tolle commented that he is surprised dogs are able to stay as sane as they DO!

• Anxiety and stress-related behavioral problems (thunderstorms, 4th of July, travel, etc.)
• Chronic pain or discomfort like hip dysplasia and arthritis
• Heart disease and cancer management
• Helps rescued dogs assimilate into their new loving home (yours)
• Ease the transition for dogs near death (this has been a great help for me and my own dogs)

Reiki is shared with hand positions that are specific to each type of Reiki. Each position is used to create a certain energy outcome to help bring your dog into balance. Many Reiki practitioners use Reiki on the dog’s chakras to balance the dog. Then they concentrate on the specific area that may be of concern. For example, I go over my dog I am working with, balance their chakras using Reiki, and then I go back and concentrate on the area of concern. I also use my The Blissful Dog Vibrational Essences in conjunction with Reiki as I work on specific issues.

Dogs have the same chakra systems that people do (for the most part) with extra centers in their paws, etc. This is covered my Dog Chakra article.

These charkas are specifically connected to different glands in your dog. Reiki will make the glands release hormones directly into the blood stream and control all aspects of your dogs daily activities and healthy thinking. The key is balance…all things in moderation and in balance!

Reiki is a gentle but powerful healer. It will balance your dog’s energy, organs, and glands. It has proven to strengthen immune systems, relieve pain, clears toxins, and enhances personal awareness while relaxing your dog.

The Reiki Principles

Just for today, do not worry.

Just for today, no not anger.

Honor your parents, teachers, and elders.

Earn your living honestly

Show gratitude to every living thing.

The BlissfulDog Shop offers an amazing Chakra Kit for your dog. Click here for that.

My Dog’s Nose Is Dry…Is He Sick?

May 14, 2009 by KathyDV TBD  
Filed under Health Tips, Ponderings & Posts

fb_pugYou are sitting and petting your best friend (as you should be) and realize his nose feels a bit warm and dry. Once, a long time ago, an Old Wife told you a Tale (or is that tail?) about that meaning your dog is sick. Do you call the vet? Do you faint? What to do?

Being a good pet parent means knowing when your dog needs to go to the vet, when you can treat at home, or when you can just go on about your day…Twittering or whatever.

Since your dog cannot tell you how they are feeling, unless you are really tuned into them, you need to learn how to differentiate.

The “warm nose myth” has many pet owners feeling that their pet has a fever, or is sick, if the nose is warm and dry. A dog’s nose may be very wet, cool and perfect one moment then be warmer and not-so-moist the next. All within a few minutes, or a day…all just fine.

Changes in texture, becoming crusty or flaky and color of a pet’s nose should be looked at by your vet. A dry, cracked nose, with loss of pigmentation, scabs or open sores should be examined by your veterinarian NOW. A sick little dog will not be so Blissful, sigh and will often have a warm, dry nose in addition to other symptoms, such as: lethargy, decreased or absent appetite, vomiting, diarrhea and so on. In the absence of other physical signs, there can be dermatological (skin) problems that can be seen in this area, such as Pemphigus Foliaceus.

Other nose conditions to be aware of…

Contact sensitivity: Allergies and sensitivities to plastics and dyes may also manifest as changes on the nose and muzzle area on pets fed from plastic dishes. Rather than take a chance use stainless steel, glass or ceramic bowls are also just fine…plus, some of them are gorgeous!

Nasal discharge: Anytime your pet shows signs of a “runny nose” or the dreaded SNOTS he or she should be examined by your veterinarian. Coughing, sneezing and difficulty breathing can be signs of anything from a respiratory infection to a nasal foreign body to a tumor in the nasal passages.

Sunburn: If one of your dogs has a lighter nose, you may want to consider sunscreen.

Well…I hope this has helped give you some insight on a subject near and dear to my heart…DOG NOSES!!!!

Don’t forget…our The Blissful Dog Nose Butters are the perfect solution for many of the above issues. The shea butter has a natural sunscreen in it AND all the amazing oils and essences I put in The Blissful Dog Nose Butter help all the conditions we chatted about here. Just CLICK HERE.

Housetraining Tips & Hints

May 12, 2009 by KathyDV TBD  
Filed under Ponderings & Posts

earlalone

You have now been warned, Frenchies, Pugs, Boston terriers and many other companion or toy breeds can be a bit “stubborn” when it comes to housebreaking. Be patient! They will “get it!”. It will take patience, perseverance, attention and lots of paper towels, but they will get it. Some dogs take longer than others, just have faith. I personally believe that the breeds which were “developed” to simply be adored companions just assume we are here to clean up after them and they expect us to do just that!

First decide the method you will be using and stick with it. If you are in a 77th floor condo in Chicago, you might want to train the puppy on wee wee pads. It will just take too long to get the puppy down and out to do their business. We live on far northern business and when we used to have puppies we trained them to go on paper. Fifty below w/o wind chill is too cold for them to have to go out..period! So, decide…paper or outside!

Start house training IMMEDIATELY! Get him on a regular feeding schedule and makes plenty of trips outside. When the puppy runs around like he is looking for something – he is! Take him immediately outside (or to the paper). Upon waking from sleeping, right after eating and anytime you just get home take him out or to his paper. Also, right before you go to bed.

Accidents WILL happen. If you catch him right in the MIDDLE of the act rush him outside (or to his paper). It does NO good to rub his nose in it (old mean wives tale). Do not yell at him when you discover a mess, they will not understand why you are angry. Trust me, their memory is not that long.

Every puppy has it’s own rate of learning, but even the most stubborn puppy should be pretty reliable by four to five months of age. I have had the best success when I installed a doggy door and they were able to come and go at will. If this is an option, it may be your best bet!

Oh, by the way….Did I say, be patient?

Bringing Home Your New Puppy

May 10, 2009 by KathyDV TBD  
Filed under Ponderings & Posts

walterYou have done your homework, decided a Frenchie was the perfect breed for you, developed a rapport with a
reputable breeder and decided on just the right French Bulldog to share your life with. Now is the time to “Go
Shopping” and prepare for your puppy’s arrival.

A crate is a must have. There are two basic types of crate, metal and plastic. Both have advantages and disadvantages.

A metal crate is good for visibility, the puppy can see what is going on and you can more easily
what he is doing. If you select a suitcase style (collapsible), you will be able to move your crate easily from
room to room. If showing your Frenchie is in your plans, this type of crate is much easier to transport. But, the
metal crates cannot be used for airline travel without adaptation. They can also be drafty in colder weather.
The plastic type of crate is required for airline travel. A plastic crate offers more warmth in the winter and is
more private for your dog. Plastic is also easier clean, which is great for that beginning housebreaking stage.
Keep in mind, a puppy, or any dog for that matter, should NOT be kept crated for more than a few hours
at a time, occasionally. I do not agree, personally, with keeping a dog in a crate all day while you are at
work…letting him out for a few hours at night to play and then crating him again to sleep all night – that could
be almost 20 hours a day in a crate!

A puppy should not have run of the house, especially when they are learning to be housebroken. Usually the
kitchen is the best choices for a place to keep your new Frenchie when you are not there. Floors are easily
mopped and we all know that mop will be out in full force until your Frenchie is 100% housebroken. I strongly
suggest using a doggy gate to contain the puppy in the kitchen. This allows the puppy to see out and feel a
part of things. Even if there is a door, the doggy/baby gate is a better option. We recommend that you get the
plastic, pressure-fitted mesh type. It is preferable to the wooden slatted type, a puppy can get his head stuck in the slats too easily!

Many people have had very good results using an exercise pen in the kitchen. Exercise pens are available at
your pet supply store or through pet supply catalogs. Exercise pens, or X-pens as they are called, resemble
small portable fences and are found in a variety of sizes. I always set up an exercise pen with the puppy’s food
and water and a comfortable bed in one end and newspapers in the other. For Frenchies, I recommend the 30”
height. You can easily reach over it and pick up your puppy, papers, or whatever. If you have an escape artist,
you may have to invest in a taller one. This is the method I strongly recommend.

Of course, you need to invest in high quality, easily cleaned food and water bowls. There are many varieties
on the market. Stainless steel will last a lifetime and can be easily cleaned. Your pet supply store or catalog
should have just the ones for your new Frenchie. Your breeder should have recommended a premium puppy
food. If not, consult your veterinarian.

Collars come next. The inexpensive, smooth nylon type that the buckle makes its own hole in the collar is a good starter collar. Select one that is at least two inches longer than the puppy’s neck, so he will have growing room and you won’t be buying a new collar every week! A thin matching lead will work to begin leash-breaking. Do not buy such a heavy collar and leash that your puppy is “weighed down” by it. When your Frenchie is approximately nine or ten months old you should be able to select a permanent collar and lead.
Frenchie necks are exceptionally thick and if you have a male Frenchie his neck may continue to grow until he is two or more. There are so many stylish, durable collars and leads on the market, I know you can select a suitable one for your Frenchie.

The retractable type leash is great to give your puppy freedom, while keeping him under control. These leashes range in length from ten feet to twenty six feet.

A suitable bed is next. For a growing, teething puppy you do not want to invest in an expensive, designer
type bed, also I would steer away from the beds that have the exposed foam on the bottom. The temptation
to flip that bed over and chew may be too great for your puppy! The thick, comfy lambswool type beds work
well in my house. There are a variety of styles available, from flat pads to donut shaped beds that Frenchies
love to curl up in! Most are warm, easily washed and stay good looking for a long time. When teething and
housebreaking are over you can invest in that designer dog bed of your dreams.

Now to the most important category of all (at least to your Frenchie) TOYS! There are literally hundreds, if not
thousands, of dog toys available now. The ones that I have recommended are based on a ten years career in
the pet industry (conning the vendors out of as many free samples as I could) and my own in-house panel of
French Bulldog toy testers.

There are many types of Nylabones® and Gumabones® available now, from chicken or liver flavored to glow
in the dark! I would recommend the Regular to Wolf size for most Frenchies. My Frenchies seem to really enjoy
the Galileo® style Nylabones®. The Plaque Attacker® line of therapeutic chew toys allows your Frenchie to
chew while cleaning their teeth. There are raised tips on the toys that massage the gums while they chew.
Joker likes the Plaque Attacker® dinosaurs, especially the T.Rex. Booda® makes a wonderful edible bone, the
Booda Velvet®, that is a corn starch based, odorless completely digestible chew bone. It takes a couple of
weeks for Joker to devour one of the Medium sized bones.

Any of the sherpa, lambswool type fleece toys, or the fuzzy ones with the different sounds, are a big hit at my
house. These toys can be comforting to young puppies away from home for the first time. Keep an eye on your
Frenchie to ensure that they do not chew off an ear and swallow it.

I do not recommend either pig ears or hooves for Frenchies. The ears get really soft and can easily get stuck in
their flat French Bulldog throats and they can choke. The hooves can also break teeth and splinter. I do have
some that will spend hours chewing a hoof, so I relent occasionally, but with caution. For the same reason, I do
not recommend any type of rawhide chew. I will let mine have the occasional granulated rawhide chew. This
is a type of rawhide that was ground into bits and then reshaped into the desired shape, somewhat like a rice
cake in texture. So, never, ever rawhide or ears and maybe a hoof every now and then.

The little latex squeak toys are allowed at my house, but only under supervision. The puppies love these toys,
but can tear them apart and possibly swallow the squeaker or the latex.

Many experts recommend that you allow a puppy to have no more than three toys at a time. This keeps them
from thinking that everything in the house is theirs, it also keeps them from becoming bored with their toys. I
will put the toys away for a while and when I bring them back out, they think they have all new toys!

Having a new Frenchie puppy can be one of the most exciting times of all. With a little planning and shopping, you should be able to have a safe and happy homecoming for your new addition. But most importantly, have fun and enjoy each day with your new puppy, they do not stay puppies long!

Give your new Frenchie a hug and a kiss from me.

More on EZBoy’s Wheels

May 9, 2009 by KathyDV TBD  
Filed under Ponderings & Posts

ezboy_wheelsAlmost two years ago, at Frenchie Fun Camp (that is another post), we decided to make a cart for EZBoy. We had seen the carts that were around $500 and I was sure that our creative group could make one for him. I Googled around and found plans for a cart on a Dachshund site. It was made of PVC and odds and ends…a MacGyvered dog wheelchair…just my style! So, each of us Mary, Carol, Kathi and Ellen took a part of the cart and got to work! That way, we could all have a part in it. Carol and Mary cut the PVC (I am not allowed to use sharp objects). Kathi and Ellen figured out the velcro and I found some wheels. Talk about it takes a village! Here is a clip of EZBoy begging for his cart!

An inordinately long period of time was spent measuring EZBoy and comparing the shape of a French Bulldog body to that of a Dachshund…talk about apples and oranges! We knew, from many hours of watching various hunky guys on HGTV and DIY Network, that we needed to measure twice and cut once. Far be it from US to defy hunky Home Improvement Show Dudes…so we measured and measured. Then… Carol grabbed the saw and cut away! Before you knew it, we had pieces of PVC lying about and the next step was upon us. GLUING! I stepped up and announced that I knew how to glue the PVD together…I grabbed that heinous smelling purple stuff and got after it.

Yep, we were makin’ a cart! Eleen, who works as a costume designer for various theater groups (she gets paid to make doll clothes for people and then add glitter to everything), grabbed the super duper industrial strength Velcro we had obtained and proceeded to work her magic. She moaned and groaned about not having glitter braid or anything else decorative to adorn the velcro with. We assured her that EZBoy would not mind. I think he was relieved at escaping the glitter demon.

Intense Name for a Crusty, Yukky Nose Condition

May 7, 2009 by KathyDV TBD  
Filed under Ponderings & Posts

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Nasodigital Hyperkeratosis

There are a variety of different conditions that can affect our dear little flatter faces ones noses. Some of them can just plain have a dirt, encrusted nose. Some get a buildup of food (and treats) on their noses, which can be a really ugly mess. Both of these can be frustrating to get rid of, as our dogs do not usually want to have there cute faces messed with.

There is also a true “medical condition” that can affect many dogs, not just flat faced ones.

Nasodigital hyperkeratosis is characterized by hard, dry, and often cracked tissue on the nose or footpads. The appearance of the growths varies from regular to irregular projections of firm, feathered, and cracked horny tissue. The affected surface is dry and subject to painful and uncomfortable fissures and cracks. In many cases, just the edges of the nose or footpads are affected. In some dogs, however, the entire nose or footpad area can be affected.

Ongoing treatment is either continual (one to two times per week) or occasional as the growths recur.

Once it develops, nasodigital hyperkeratosis is a lifelong condition that needs some form of maintenance therapy.

I have personally had a couple of dogs that had this condition and my Nose Butters have made a dramatic difference in keeping this at bay! After just a few days of treating noses with my The Blissful Nose nose butters…they literally had great looking, pliant nose leathers.

Technorati Verification

May 5, 2009 by KathyDV TBD  
Filed under Ponderings & Posts

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What Do I FEED MY Dog?

May 5, 2009 by KathyDV TBD  
Filed under Ponderings & Posts

wellnesshdr

Have you been to the pet food store lately and looked, I mean REALLY looked at all the choices available? Row after row after row of food for your beloved dog…each one promising to be all they need and yummy to boot. Where do you start and how do you pick the best one for your dog? If you check out many of the forums online you will see that the subject of dog food can bring up emotions that are a bit, shall we say, heated in people. If left to their own devices, I know my dogs would eat a laundry list of heinous stuff that would shame us all…so what to do???

We all know we should eat organic fruits and veggies and consciously raised protein sources and hopefully, we will do the same for our dogs. Just like for us, what we feed our dogs (and how much) will determine how healthy your dog is. Dogs that receive all of the proper nutrients, vitamins, minerals and other juicy good stuff, will usually be in better health than those generic fed dogs. It just makes sense to feed your dog a top of the line, holistic pet food!

So why is a holistic dog food so good for dogs? Common sense…just like for us…

• No harmful ingredients. Unlike many dog foods, holistic, or organic dog food never add preservatives, additives, dyes, etc. Ingredients are fresh and checked and the source is known and trusted. I know I felt so violated when the pet food ingredients were coming in from harmful sources (China). Even though I know no one purposefully tried to harm the pets, greed reared its ugly head…sigh.

• Make Your Dog’s Food Yourself! Yep, you can be a Top Dog Chef! Tis can range from feeding raw (that is a huge subject in and if itself) to actually cooking for your dog. This post just throws out the option. This is the best way to be 100% sure you know what is going into your dog (and eventually coming out…teehee).

• Added EXtras! Many organic or holistic dog foods offer Omega3s and 6s, probiotics, vitamins, and antioxidants. These are all very well known health boosters for everyone! Even though you may see these ingredients listed on mass produced foods, they are usually not of top quality and not usually the correct quantity…advertising tease, if you will.

• Promotes good health. With all natural ingredients and added nutrients, your dog should just be healthier. Shiny eyes, pliant nose leather, stamina, better teeth…all come from optimal health.

• Should save money. Organic food is usually more expensive, but a healthier dog will require fewer trips to the vet. Less allergies (#1 issue for many pet owners), better teeth, more active.

Now, if I only took as good of care of myself and my husband as I do my dogs! I know I am NOT alone in this one! More on this subject soon!

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